the Big Easy

David and I pretended not to be parents this past weekend and headed down to New Orleans. David attended a legal conference by day, so I had some time to explore the city on my own a bit, which definitely proved to be love at first sight and at first (and each successive) meal. Gumbo, jambalaya, mississippi mud, beignets, Emeril's, and especially Galatoire's-- we wanted to bring you all back home with us.

In my head it was hard not to think I was in Cuba or some island country-- bright cheerful colors together with Katrina's dingy mark make things look a bit third world. But the stunning architecture still catches your eye everywhere you look and each structure told a story. This picture shows (on the left) the tiny size of the half-houses-- slave quarters-- that attach across the courtyards of the bigger homes. Ironically, these are apparently pretty chic places to rent now.

We found every used bookstore in town, and only cursed them when there was no room for clothes in our suitcase on the way home.

I ventured out of the French Quarter and took the trolley to the end of the line where some of the oldest cemeteries hold the victims from the yellow fever epidemics. A bit creepy, but eerily beautiful all the same. It was harder to see the signs of modern destruction that peppered canal street as we travelled north.



We started to see signs of Halloween everywhere, even as we left on the 21st. But that still didn't account for the number of guys in drag (and fortunately football helmets) that we saw trying to ride their drunk selves home on bikes at the end of the night. In the spirit of things (and Marie Laveau) David and I stopped by a somewhat reputable-looking palm reader for psychic readings. We were happy to learn that we will both live into our 90's, with me having "just a touch of senility" and that twins are in our near future (to which we responded "of course" and "oh no!" respectively).





It will be interesting to come back someday and spend more time getting to know that area of the Mississippi river better. As nice as it was without the kids, we have to bring them back soon to see live jazz and eat the best food they'll ever have.